Eating in Beijing

Beijing Food Briefing

Beijing, located at the northern tip of the North China Plain and encircled by Hebei Province, spans over 16,000 square kilometers with a population of around 10.81 million. It governs 16 districts and counties. The southeastern area forms part of the North China Plain, characterized by flat, fertile land yielding crops like rice, wheat, corn, sorghum, millet, buckwheat, and vegetables. The western and northern regions belong to the Taihang and Yanshan mountain ranges, producing dried and fresh fruits such as chestnuts, walnuts, dates, pears, persimmons, crabapples, hawthorns, peaches, and apricots.

As a vital corridor between the North China Plain and the Inner Mongolian Plateau, Beijing has long served as both a trade hub connecting agricultural and pastoral economies and a strategic military stronghold. Human activity here dates back to Peking Man and Upper Cave Man. Established as the capital of the Yan State during the Spring and Autumn Period (770-476 BC), it later became the capital under the Liao, Jin, Yuan, and Ming dynasties. Historically, even moderately well-off residents relied mainly on coarse grains, reserving meat consumption for festivals. By the late Qing Dynasty, its 1.2 million residents consumed about 600 pigs and 800 sheep daily, doubling during holidays. Seafood from Tianjin remained too costly for ordinary people.

In recent decades, Beijing’s population surge, driven by domestic migration, has led to a blending of regional food cultures, gradually diminishing traditional local dietary customs. Modern daily supplies of meat, poultry, and eggs now exceed historical annual quantities. The city’s culinary legacy shines through its distinctive dishes and time-honored specialties. These include imperial desserts like the 88-layer Qianceng Gao, Manchurian Sachima pastries, radish cakes from Zhiweizhai, maroon buns from Tan Family Cuisine, Zhengmingzhai pastries, Yueshengzhai’s spiced beef, Tianhaohao’s braised pork, pickles from Liubiju and Tianyuan Pickle Shop, Tongsanyi’s pear syrup, and Xinyuanzhai’s sour plum drink. While not daily staples, these delicacies enrich Beijing’s food culture.

Historically, Beijing’s dining establishments ranged from simple noodle shops and affordable Erhun eateries serving pork/mutton dishes with basic staples to specialized restaurants bearing names like "Xuan" or "Chun." Mid-sized banquet halls hosted smaller gatherings, while grand complexes like Fushoutang or Tongxingtang accommodated large-scale events, featuring courtyards, canopies, and even opera stages for hundreds of guests. This diverse culinary landscape reflected both everyday needs and the city’s historical role as a cultural crossroads.

Famous Local Dishes

Beijing Roast Duck(Beijing Kaoya北京烤鸭)

Beijing Roast Duck, a globally celebrated dish with origins tracing back to China’s Northern and Southern Dynasties (420–589), was documented as zhìyā (roast duck) in the culinary classic Shí Zhēn Lù and served as an imperial delicacy. Prepared from premium meat ducks roasted over fruitwood charcoal, it boasts a glossy crimson hue, tender yet non-greasy meat, and a crisp exterior. Divided into two major schools, Beijing’s most renowned roast duck establishments—Quanjude and pianyifang—epitomize these traditions. Praised as a “divine delicacy,” it is distinguished by its vibrant color, delicate texture, rich flavor, and harmonious balance of lean and fatty meat.

During the early Ming Dynasty, when Nanjing salted duck was a popular favorite—even Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang reportedly consumed one roast duck daily—imperial chefs innovated new duck dishes to please the court, leading to the creation of fork-roasted duck and closed-oven roasted duck. Quanjude became synonymous with the open-fire fork-roasting method, while pianyifang mastered the closed-oven technique. Early versions, such as Jinling (Nanjing) roast duck, used plump grass ducks weighing around 2.5 kilograms.

After Emperor Yongle (Zhu Di) relocated the capital to Beijing, he brought Nanjing’s roast duck masters north. By the Jiajing era (1522–1566), the dish spread beyond the palace, and Beijing’s first roast duck shop, Lao pianyifang, opened in Caishikou’s Mishi Hutong. Initially named Jinling Piàn Pí Yā (Nanjing Crisp-Skin Duck), its signage highlighted its Nanjing roots.

In 1864, Quanjude—now Beijing’s most iconic roast duck brand—opened, advancing the craft with its guàlú (hung oven) method. Roasted over fruitwood flames, the duck acquired a fragrant aroma, propelling “Beijing Roast Duck” to overshadow its Nanjing predecessor, which survives today only in southern cities like Hong Kong and Guangzhou.

Post-1949, Beijing Roast Duck’s global fame soared, championed by Premier Zhou Enlai, who frequently served it to foreign dignitaries. Modernization has since refined roasting techniques, enhancing flavor and accessibility. Quanjude, founded by Yang Quanren—a former poultry vendor who hired imperial chefs—perfected the hung oven method: ducks are roasted whole, filled with boiling water to preserve juiciness, and cooked over smokeless fruitwood (e.g., jujube or pear), yielding paper-thin, crispy skin and tender meat. This method, now synonymous with “authentic” Beijing Roast Duck, contrasts with pianyifang’s older mènlú (closed-oven) technique.

Dating to the Ming Yongle era (1403–1424), pianyifang’s closed-oven method uses brick-lined earth ovens heated by indirect embers—a skill demanding precise temperature control to avoid charring or undercooking. The result is glossy, crisp skin and exceptionally moist meat. Though less widespread today (most shops emulate Quanjude’s method), pianyifang’s 600-year-old technique was recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. While electric ovens have replaced traditional sorghum-stalk fires, the closed-oven duck retains its hallmark succulence.

Quanjude’s fruitwood aroma evokes humanity’s primal mastery of fire, while pianyifang’s juicier, softer profile offers a subtler historical echo. Together, they embody Beijing’s culinary legacy—a harmony of innovation and tradition.

Instant-boiled Mutton (Shuan Yangrou涮羊肉)

Shuan Yangrou (instant-boiled mutton), also historically called "mutton slices" during the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368), became widely known by the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912) as a celebrated dish. Its popularity later expanded with the emergence of skewered mutton variations.

In Beijing, Shuan Yangrou is a household name, cherished for its simplicity and savory flavor. Legend traces its origin to Kublai Khan, the founding emperor of the Yuan Dynasty. During a southern military campaign, his exhausted troops craved nourishment. Recalling a homestyle stewed mutton dish, Kublai ordered his cooks to prepare it. As soldiers began butchering sheep, scouts rushed in warning of approaching enemies. Desperate for food, Kublai shouted “Mutton!” while rallying his troops.

A quick-witted chef sliced raw mutton into paper-thin pieces, dipped them in boiling water until barely cooked, and served them with dipping sauce. Kublai devoured the improvised meal, led his army to victory, and later demanded the dish at his celebratory feast. When asked to name it, he declared: “Call it Shuan Yangrou” (literally “swished mutton”). It thus became an imperial delicacy.

Another account links Shuan Yangrou to late 19th-century Beijing. A restaurant owner allegedly obtained the recipe from a palace eunuch during Emperor Guangxu’s reign (1875–1908), introducing this royal dish to the public as “mutton hot pot.” Though modern variations abound, the classic preparation—tender meat briefly cooked in broth and paired with sauces—remains a timeless favorite, bridging imperial kitchens and everyday dining tables.

Beijing-Style Shredded Pork in Sweet Bean Sauce(Jingjiang Rousi京酱肉丝)

Jingjiang Rousi (Beijing-Style Shredded Pork in Sweet Bean Sauce) is a classic northern Chinese dish created as an affordable alternative to Beijing roast duck. Originating in the 1930s, it centers on tender pork shreds stir-fried with sweet bean sauce using the traditional "jiangbao" technique—a northern Chinese stir-frying method focused on sauce-based seasoning.

The dish traces back to a tofu-maker named Chen, who lived with his grandson in a Beijing courtyard near the Forbidden City. Unable to afford roast duck after his grandson saw others enjoying it, Chen improvised by stir-frying lean pork slices with fermented bean sauce and serving them with scallions and tofu skin (a substitute for roast duck’s pancake wrappers). The boy, thrilled by the savory flavors, believed he was eating real roast duck. Over time, this humble meal evolved into the beloved Jingjiang Rousi.

Prepared with pork tenderloin sliced into fine shreds and cooked in sweet bean sauce until glossy, the dish balances salty and sweet flavors with a rich umami depth. It is traditionally served with fresh scallions and tofu skin or pancakes, often paired with steamed rice or buns. Nutritionally rich in protein, calcium, and iron, its tender texture makes it particularly suitable for elderly diners while also stimulating appetite.

Chen’s grandson later became a chef at Quanjude, Beijing’s famed roast duck restaurant. Though he mastered roast duck, he could never replicate the joy of his grandfather’s makeshift dish. Refining the recipe over time, he perfected today’s Jingjiang Rousi—celebrated for its velvety pork and aromatic sauce—showcasing how necessity sparked a culinary legacy that endures in homes and restaurants across northern China.

Braised Yellow Shark Fin(Huangmen Yuchi黄焖鱼翅)

Braised Yellow Shark Fin (Huangmen Yuchi), a traditional Beijing delicacy, involves slow-cooking shark fin with aged poultry and cured meats to achieve a gelatinous texture and rich umami flavor. The dish begins by preparing 1750 grams of pre-soaked yellow shark fin, 750 grams of duck, 3000 grams of aged hen, 25 grams of dried scallops, 250 grams of cooked ham, and seasonings including salt, sugar, Shaoxing wine, and ginger.

The hen and duck are split along the backbone, cleaned, and rinsed. Scallions are cut into segments, ginger smashed, and 25 grams of ham finely minced. Dried scallops are soaked to remove grit, then steamed until tender. The shark fin is rinsed and layered on a bamboo slotted mat placed inside a large enamel pot, stabilized by crisscrossed chopsticks beneath. Water is added, brought to a boil, and drained three times—each round with fresh water, the third including scallions and ginger to neutralize any fishiness.

Next, the poultry and remaining ham are boiled until cooked, then layered over the shark fin in the pot. Covered with 2500-3000ml water, the mixture is brought to a boil, skimmed of impurities, and simmered with scallions and ginger. After an initial 15-minute vigorous boil, the heat is reduced for a 6-7 hour slow braise.

Once cooked, the poultry and ham are removed. The broth is strained into a wok, seasoned with salt, sugar, and Shaoxing wine, then briefly simmered with the shark fin to absorb flavors. The fin is inverted onto a plate for serving. If the broth lacks thickness, a starch slurry is added to create a glossy coating. Finally, the dish is garnished with minced ham.

The result is amber-colored shark fin with a melt-in-the-mouth texture, infused with layered flavors from the aged hen, duck, and cured ham—a testament to Beijing’s imperial culinary heritage through its meticulous preparation and balanced richness.
Famous Local Snacks

Beijing San Bu Nian北京三不粘

Beijing "San Bu Nian" (Three Non-Stick) is a golden-yellow dessert made from egg yolks, starch, sugar, and water, celebrated for its unique texture that adheres neither to plates, chopsticks, nor teeth—hence its name. With a smooth, custard-like consistency and sweet flavor, it is especially popular among children and the elderly. The dish is prepared by vigorously stirring the mixture in a wok with lard until it forms a glossy, cohesive mass that remains detached from cooking surfaces.

The dish’s origins are shrouded in legend. One account ties it to Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, who allegedly encountered it during a visit to Anyang, Henan, and named it "Three Non-Stick" after its non-adhesive quality, later introducing it to the imperial court. Another story claims it was invented during Emperor Guangxu’s reign when a Shandong chef created it for Empress Dowager Cixi, who demanded a golden, smooth dessert “requiring no chewing.” A third version attributes its creation to Zigong, Sichuan, where it was renamed by Emperor Qianlong and brought to the Forbidden City.

A lesser-known legend traces it to the Song Dynasty. During a lavish banquet for poet Lu You’s mother’s 60th birthday, she challenged her daughter-in-law, Tang Wan, to create a dish that “looks fried, tastes soft, sticks to nothing, and needs no chewing.” Tang Wan improvised by whisking egg yolks with starch, sugar, and lard, cooking the mixture until it formed a golden, non-stick delicacy. Guests marveled at its texture and cleverness, dubbing it “Three Non-Stick” for its refusal to cling to plates, utensils, or teeth.

Though its true origin remains debated, the dish endures as a testament to culinary creativity, blending simplicity with technical precision. Its enduring appeal lies in its harmonious balance of sweetness and texture, a legacy preserved in both home kitchens and historical lore.

Consommé Bird's Nest (Qingtang Yanwo清汤燕窝)

Consommé Bird's Nest (Qingtang Yanwo), a signature dish of Beijing's renowned Tan Family Cuisine, exemplifies refined imperial culinary artistry. Known for its pristine clarity and delicate flavor, this dish features premium "Imperial Bird's Nest" (also called Snow Nest, Tribute Nest, or Palace Nest), prized for its snow-white color, minimal impurities, and high nutritional value.
The Tan Family's version stands out for its meticulous preparation. It uses top-grade bird's nests sourced from Siam (modern Thailand), paired with a crystal-clear broth achieved through a labor-intensive double-straining process. The broth, simmered with aged poultry and cured meats, is clarified until it resembles "water in appearance, pale tea in color." This translucent liquid gently simmers the bird's nest, allowing its subtle gelatinous texture to shine without overpowering its natural essence.

Regarded as one of Tan Family Cuisine's "twin jewels" alongside Braised Yellow Shark Fin, Consommé Bird's Nest embodies the school's philosophy of balancing luxury with understatement. The dish's ethereal simplicity—free from heavy sauces or spices—showcases the chef's mastery in extracting pure, layered umami, cementing its status as a timeless symbol of Beijing's gourmet heritage.

Douzhi豆汁

Douzhi (Fermented Mung Bean Drink), a distinctive Beijing street food with over 300 years of documented history, is crafted from the fermented residue left after extracting starch from mung beans. This tangy, gray-green liquid—simultaneously sour, slightly sweet, and faintly earthy—holds cultural significance as both a humble folk staple and a Qing Dynasty imperial beverage. Recognized in 2007 as part of Beijing’s Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Originating as early as the Liao (907–1125) and Song (960–1279) dynasties, douzhi gained imperial favor in 1754 when Emperor Qianlong, intrigued by its popularity, ordered officials to verify its safety before introducing it to palace menus. Courtiers reportedly praised its unique flavor after a royal tasting session.

Traditionally sold by street vendors, douzhi was paired with zesty accompaniments: pickled mustard stems, radish shreds with chili oil, sesame flatbreads, and jiaoquan (crispy fried dough rings). Vendors typically set up stalls near temples, using wooden barrels to ferment the drink on-site. Summer stalls added cloth awnings for shade, while winter sales thrived on its reputation as a warming, digestif-like beverage.

The preparation involves soaking and grinding mung beans, fermenting the slurry to separate starch (used for noodles) from the liquid douzhi. This liquid is then simmered and kept warm in clay pots. Despite its initial challenging aroma—often compared to pickling brine—many locals develop a lifelong craving, describing its acquired taste as “refined bitterness with hidden sweetness.”

As documented in Miscellaneous Poems of Beijing Snacks: “Even dregs can make a noble porridge; its magic lies in balanced sourness. Young and old gather, each bowl a marvel beyond mere salt and acid.” True to tradition, connoisseurs insist on pairing it with precisely sliced pickles and golden jiaoquan, upholding a culinary ritual that bridges imperial history and everyday Beijing life.

Recommended Restaurants

For your reference, the following are the restaurants rated most popular by the locals:

Huguo Temple Snacks （Huguo Si Xiaochi护国寺小吃)
Description: A hub of traditional Beijing snacks, offering lvdagun (glutinous rice rolls), douzhi (fermented mung bean drink), and wandouhuang (pea flour cake) at affordable prices. Perfect for experiencing old Beijing street culture.
Address: No. 93, Huguosi Street.

Nanmen Shuanrou南门涮肉
Description: A classic Beijing copper-pot hotpot spot. Features hand-sliced lamb in clear broth, served with aromatic sesame sauce. Known for its "vertically plated lamb" quality test.
Address: Building 13, Yongnei Dongjie Dongli, Dongcheng District.
Xiaochang Chen Restaurant （Xiaochang Chen Fanzhuang小肠陈饭庄)
Description: Century-old eatery famous for luzhu (stewed pork offal) and suzhao rou (imperial-style braised pork). Offal is cleaned thoroughly, paired perfectly with baked wheat cakes.
Address: No. 194, Nanheng East Street, Xicheng District.
Siji Minfu Roast Duck (Siji Minfu Kaoya四季民福烤鸭店)
Description: Scenic restaurant near the Forbidden City serving crispy-skinned roast duck. Also try their beile kaorou (Mongolian-style grilled lamb) and almond tofu while enjoying views of the palace towers.
Address: No. 11, Nanchizi Street, Dongcheng District.
Hongbinlou Restaurant (Hongbinlou鸿宾楼)
Description: Historic halal restaurant renowned for braised oxtail in rich sauce. Blends imperial and homestyle flavors, ideal for family gatherings.
Address: No. 18, Chaowai South Street, Chaoyang District.
Yaoji Chao Gan 姚记炒肝
Description: Beijing’s signature chaogan (stir-fried liver) spot. Thick sauce coats tender liver and intestines, best paired with pork buns or fried starch sausages. Embodies hutong alleyway charm.
Address: No. 311, Gulou East Street, Dongcheng District.
Judelou Restaurant (Judelou Fanzhuang聚德楼饭庄)
Description: Preserver of Shandong-style imperial cuisine. Must-tries include wine-infused fish fillets and "nine-twist" braised intestines showcasing aristocratic flavors.
Address: No. 1, Jinsong South Road, Chaoyang District.
Shaguo Ju (砂锅居)
Description: 300-year-old institution famous for its casserole-boiled pork belly with pickled cabbage. Pair with their san bu nian (three non-stick dessert) for a classic Beijing meal.
Address: No. 60, Xisi South Street, Xicheng District.